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Tussar Silk — The Complete Guide to India's Wild Forest Silk

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FABRIC & CRAFT GUIDE

Tussar Silk — The Complete Guide to India's Wild Forest Silk

Published 15 April 2026 · 4 min read

Tussar silk (also spelled Tasar or Kosa) is a wild silk harvested from silkworms that feed on Arjuna, Saja, and other forest trees in the tribal regions of Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, and West Bengal. Unlike cultivated mulberry silk, Tussar has a naturally coarse, matte texture with an earthy honey-gold or cream base tone and a distinctive slubby texture from the irregular silk filament. It is prized for its eco-friendly production and rustic, organic aesthetic that makes it a favourite for those who love understated Indian wear.

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History & Origin

Tussar silk has been harvested from wild forest silkworms for centuries by tribal communities across Eastern India. The silk is extracted from cocoons of the Antheraea mylitta silkworm — a completely different species from the cultivated Bombyx mori (mulberry silkworm). This wild origin gives Tussar its characteristic rougher texture and naturally golden colour that cannot be replicated by any cultivated silk.

Bhagalpur in Bihar earned the nickname 'Silk City' largely through Tussar weaving, producing both plain and printed Tussar fabrics that are exported worldwide. In tribal Jharkhand, Tussar weaving is an important livelihood for indigenous communities, and the government has supported numerous cooperative projects to protect and promote this heritage craft.

How to Identify Authentic Tussar Silk

  1. Natural colour — genuine Tussar has a warm honey-gold, cream, or off-white base. If the base colour is pure stark white or has an artificial brightness, it is likely blended or synthetic.
  2. Slub texture — real Tussar has natural irregular thickening (slubs) in the yarn which create a slightly uneven surface texture. This is a feature, not a defect.
  3. Matte finish — Tussar is not shiny like mulberry silk. If a 'Tussar' saree has high sheen, it is blended with synthetic or mulberry silk.
  4. Burn test — Tussar silk burns slowly with a smell of burning hair, leaving crushable grey ash. Synthetic imitations melt and smell of burnt plastic.
  5. Feel test — Tussar has a slightly rough, dry hand feel compared to the smooth hand of mulberry silk. This is entirely normal and desirable.

Types of Tussar Silk

TypeWeightPrice RangeBest For
Pure Tussar (Plain)Light-MediumRs 1,500 – Rs 8,000Daily ethnic, office wear
Printed TussarLight-MediumRs 2,000 – Rs 15,000Festive, casual occasions
Embroidered TussarMediumRs 4,000 – Rs 30,000Festive, semi-formal
Kosa Silk (Chattisgarh variant)MediumRs 3,000 – Rs 20,000Occasions, gifting

Best Brands for Tussar Silk

On Amazon, brands like Handloom Weavers, Odisha Weaves, and Mirraw offer good Tussar options. Satrani and Mimosa carry Tussar-blend sarees at accessible prices. For genuine handloom Tussar, look for government-supported weavers cooperative listings which often carry the Handloom Mark.

Price Guide

TierPrice RangeWhat You Get
BudgetRs 1,500 – Rs 4,000Plain or printed Tussar; machine-printed designs; good for daily wear
Mid-RangeRs 4,000 – Rs 12,000Handloom Tussar with block prints or natural dyes; excellent quality for festive
PremiumRs 12,000 – Rs 30,000+Hand-embroidered or naturally-dyed pure Tussar; artisan pieces with Kantha or Chikankari work

Care & Maintenance

  • Dry-clean for embroidered or printed Tussar; plain Tussar can be gently hand-washed in cold water with mild silk-specific detergent.
  • Never wring or twist — press out excess water gently and dry flat in the shade.
  • Iron at medium heat while slightly damp or through a damp cotton cloth.
  • Store folded in muslin cloth; Tussar is slightly more robust than mulberry silk but still benefits from breathable storage.

Styling Tips

Tussar's earthy, matte tones are incredibly versatile — they pair beautifully with oxidised silver jewellery, wooden or terracotta accessories, and natural-dyed cotton blouses. The fabric has a global, bohemian appeal that works for art events, cultural gatherings, and office wear equally well. Block-printed Tussar sarees with a linen blouse is one of the most effortlessly stylish ethnic looks you can put together.

OUR VERDICT

Tussar silk is the most accessible and versatile of all Indian silks. It is easier to wear, easier to maintain, and easier on the wallet than Banarasi or Kanchipuram — making it the perfect everyday silk for working women who love ethnic wear. Start here if you are new to silk sarees.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a Tussar silk saree cost?

Tussar silk sarees are among the more affordable silks, ranging from Rs 1,500 for plain machine-woven pieces to Rs 30,000 for hand-embroidered artisan sarees. A good quality handloom Tussar saree for festive occasions can be found between Rs 4,000 and Rs 10,000.

How to identify real Tussar silk?

Look for the natural honey-gold or cream base colour, visible slubs (texture irregularities) in the yarn, and a matte (non-shiny) finish. Burn a loose thread — real silk smells like hair and leaves crushable ash. Synthetic imitations melt. Real Tussar feels slightly rough and dry, unlike smooth mulberry silk.

How to care for Tussar silk?

Plain Tussar can be carefully hand-washed in cold water with mild detergent. Embroidered or printed pieces should be dry-cleaned. Never wring. Dry flat in shade. Iron at medium heat through a damp cloth. Store in muslin, not plastic.

Is Tussar silk good for daily wear?

Yes — Tussar is one of the most practical silks for daily or office wear. Its matte texture does not show creases as obviously as shiny silks, it is lighter than Banarasi or Kanchipuram, and plain versions can be hand-washed at home. It is an ideal silk for working women.